Month: January 2024

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Preparation for Climbing Lobuche Peak

Lobuche East

Last Updated on January 30, 2024 by Treks Planner Nepal

Preparation for Climbing Lobuche Peak. Lobuche East Peak is not just one of the most popular and simplest peaks to climb, but it is also a notable mountain, standing at 6,119 meters above sea level, high above the glaciers of Nepal’s Khumbu area. As a “trekking peak,” it doesn’t require much technical climbing skill, only physical fitness and an understanding of the mountain. We frequently advise it to climbers aiming to conquer their first Himalayan peak because of this. Magnificent views of the neighboring mountain ranges, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Pumori, may be seen from both of Lobuche’s summits.

Lobuche Peak Climbing Itinerary

Level of Experience

Lobuche East is an excellent intermediate mountain for beginners. Climbers with a strong spirit of adventure, basic climbing ability, and physical fitness are the best candidates. (It’s okay if your skill set is a bit old or new; as part of your climb, we’ll undertake thorough skill clinics in both Lobuche & Everest Base Camp to get you up to speed.) Designed for trekkers and mountaineers with a strong fitness base and a willingness to challenge themselves. Although not required, prior expertise is recommended. However, no need to worry if you don’t have prior experience. We are here to give you the training you require at this summit.

Physical Training

Before your trip, it is crucial that you have excellent physical health and fitness and that you have time to devote to “climbing-specific training.” It will take you up to eight or ten hours a day to climb. You’ll get the most out of the experience, enjoy the climb, and feel great throughout if you’re in excellent shape.

It is essential that your training mirrors the conditions you will encounter on the mountain. There’s not enough focus on general fitness routines or traditional gym sessions. Rather, you must simulate physically demanding eight-hour or longer days in the highlands.

It is advised that you:

  • At least three months in advance, begin specialized climbing training.
  • Train for at least an hour, five days a week.
  • Concentrate on training at low intensity but with great volume.
  • Being able to climb 1,500 vertical feet at a comfortable pace with a 6–8 kg, 15 lb daypack is an excellent objective.
  • Plan a few weekends where you can work two or more full days in a row. Good elevation multi-day treks are great.

Mental Preparation

A strong mental attitude and attitude are essential for achieving any kind of accomplishment. You ought to be ready:

  • To spend three weeks away from home or job, with extended amounts of time spent out of range
  • Have a strong urge to travel rough and adventurously
  • Even if you are a seasoned climber, be open to accepting and yielding to direction, support, and advice from your guides and expedition leaders.
  • Feel at ease speaking candidly with your guides.
  • Maintain a positive and courteous working relationship with your teammates to function efficiently in a team setting.
  • Even under stress, maintain your composure, protocol, and consideration.

Choose Right itinerary

Having a well-balanced schedule with enough rest, acclimatization, and backup days is crucial. The schedule should take proper acclimatization with a daily suggested elevation increase into account. A minimum of three weeks is required for the ascent of Lobuche Peak.

Combine your ascent of Lobuche with a journey to the Everest base camp, Gokyo, etc. You may consider heading straight for the climb if you have previously acclimated. However, you should give yourself additional time to acclimate before starting the climb if you haven’t already. If adequate acclimatization is not followed, even strong and experienced climbers are compelled to return.

Climbing Lobuche Peak Challenges:

Steep Terrain:

Ascending from Lobuche Village will require traversing rocky and steep terrain. Your climb to Lobuche Base Camp could be strenuous and demanding.

Slippery High Camp routes:

Some of the slippery paths await you when you get to the High Base Camp at Lobuche. It will be difficult for you to navigate the routes if you are not an experienced climber or if this is your first experience.

Elevation:

All mountains have difficulties due to elevation. Because the East and West summits are higher than 6000 meters, the winter months are more frigid, with varied weather and plenty of snowfall. At high elevations, the air is thin, which can make breathing difficult. Likewise, frostbite can be caused by the intense cold, and altitude sickness affects a lot of climbers.

Lobuche East Peak Climbing Package Details

High-Quality Climbing Gears

Don’t cut corners with the gear quality. Having good gear is one of the multiple factors of success that you can control, despite there being many other unpredictable factors as well. High-quality equipment will last longer and be much more comfortable in the mountains. Make sure you have a personal first aid kit and all the equipment needed for the climb, including any attachments.

Purchasing high-quality equipment could be a wise choice if you intend to go on climbing in the future. However, renting equipment can save you a ton of money if this is your first and final time. High-quality equipment will also last you a long time and be quite comfortable. It is advisable to equip yourself with appropriate clothes to enhance your comfort level when facing harsh weather conditions.

Fundamental Skills for Mountaineering

According to an Alpine grading system, Lobuche Peak is rated Alpine PD+. The approach entails climbing an exposed ridge and a 45-degree snow slope. Compared to other well-known trekking peaks in Nepal, particularly those in the Everest area, the Lobuche Peak Climb is more technically challenging. You must feel at ease using the crampons while walking, and climbing equipment must be used. When you go on a guided climb, a guide will help you and provide you with advice on the necessary abilities. The majority of the Lobuche Peak portion is fixed-rope. It helps a lot to know the basics of crampons and fixed ropes

Check Alpine Grading and Fitness Grading

Purchase Insurance


Purchasing travel insurance is something we strongly advise doing before participating in any adventurous activity. Climbing mountains in Nepal has a variety of hazards, so it’s important to have insurance that can protect you in the case of an unexpected catastrophe. Verify with your insurance company whether they give coverage for Nepal’s peak climbing season, and be sure that trip cancellation and helicopter rescue are included in your policy. The cost of a helicopter evacuation in Nepal can range from USD 4,000 to USD 10,000, depending on the kind of aircraft and the level of rescue done.

Lobuche East Peak Climbing Package Details
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HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION 7126M: HOW TO PREPARE TO CLIMB?

Last Updated on January 22, 2024 by Treks Planner Nepal

Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M: How to prepare to climb? Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, Himlung Himal is a spectacular peak that provides a tempting combination of rugged trails and unspoiled natural beauty. It is located close to the boundary between Tibet and Nepal in the Manaslu region and rises to a magnificent height of 7,126 meters. Trekkers looking for a less traveled trail and a more remote Himalayan experience have been drawn to Himlung Himal, despite it not being as well-known as grander contemporaries like Everest or Annapurna.

The journey to Himlung reveals a fascinating tapestry of many terrains and civilizations, ranging from busy metropolitan hubs to peaceful small hamlets, deep woods, and expansive icy vistas. The journey starts in Nepal’s vibrant capital city of Kathmandu, which is also the main entry point for the majority of Himalayan expeditions.

Adventurers start with the drive-by vehicle from Kathmandu to Besisahar. The trek’s second section passes through charming villages like Phu Gaon and Koto, each of which provides a different perspective on the customs and culture of the area. The scenery changes as hikers get closer to the Himlung Himal base camp, with wide-open snow fields and majestic peaks taking the main stage. It is strongly advised that trekkers be accompanied by our experienced guides and trekking organizations due to the remoteness of Himlung Himal. In addition to offering priceless information about the environment and terrain, we also watch out for the trekkers’ security and well-being. Himlung Himal, a hidden treasure of the Himalayas, is likely to provide once-in-a-lifetime experiences as more travelers set their sights on it.

HIMLUNG HIMAL HIGHLIGHTS

Starting Point:

Kathmandu, the energetic capital of Nepal, is the starting point of all trips to the Himlung Himal. The gateway to the Himlung is Besisahar, which can be reached by road.
The trekking trail winds its way from Besisahar to the Annapurna Conservation Area, taking in breathtaking scenery and settlements. Before arriving in the village of Phu Gaon, Koto is a worthwhile halt.

Base Camp Establishment:

Located next to Phu Gaon, the base camp is the main starting place for the last ascent of Himlung Himal climbs.

Climbing Route:

Due to its combination of difficulty and captivating panoramic vistas, the Northeast face is the most popular route for those wishing to try the summit.

Cultural Immersion:

The trip provides a thorough understanding of the regional way of life, with chances to engage with native populations, see historic monasteries, and take part in celebrations.
Flora & Fauna: The path offers views of a variety of habitats, including alpine meadows and lush woods in the lower areas. If you’re lucky, you may even spot rare animals like snow leopards.

Technical Ascent:

Climbers find more difficult terrain above Camp 1, challenging their climbing abilities and providing a rewarding experience for experienced climbers.

Untrodden Path:

Climbing Himlung Himal provides a more remote and uncrowded experience than some of the more well-known peaks in the region.

Himlung Himal Insurance: Ensuring a Safe Climb

Trekking or climbing in the Himlung Himal requires the appropriate permits, physical preparation, and insurance. Being well-protected is essential because of the dangers involved in trekking and climbing at high altitudes. The following information will help you choose the appropriate insurance for your trip up the Himlung Himal:

Coverage at High Altitudes:

As the Himlung Himal reaches a height of 7,126 meters, be sure that hiking and mountaineering up to this altitude are covered by your insurance. There may be limits on altitude on certain insurance plans. Ensure your insurance policy states the highest altitude it will cover.

Helicopter Evacuation:  

In the event of a medical emergency, particularly at higher elevations, helicopter evacuation may be the only expedient means of escape. These evacuations may incur exorbitant costs.
Verify that your insurer pays for helicopter evacuations without having a large deductible.

Health Insurance:

Significance: Make sure that the complete medical coverage included in your insurance policy covers hospital stays, treatments, and medicines in case of altitude sickness or other probable health problems. Some insurance may not cover certain ailments or therapies, so it’s important to carefully read the terms.

Cancellation or interruption of a trip:

Significance Several unanticipated circumstances, ranging from health concerns to world events, may force you to postpone or cancel your vacation.

You can protect your financial investment in such a vacation by purchasing an insurance policy that covers cancellations or delays.

PREPARATION

You must have prior experience climbing semi-technical summits at elevations between 4000 and 6500 meters to summit any 7000-meter mountain.
To cut right to the chase, you may think of Himlung Himal as your very first excursion to a 7000-meter summit. To advance to 8000M summits or other challenging peaks, this will be an essential severe altitude climbing experience. If you’re thinking of climbing a 7000er mountain peak for the first time, Himlung Himal is unquestionably one to do so. The Himlung Himal climbing path is far less dangerous and only moderately technical in difficulty, but as with any high-altitude mountain excursion, you must be willing to take on an adventure and have a strong mental attitude.

NOVICE TO BEGINNER LEVEL: INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING / MERA PEAK 6476 m

To start, we can recommend these peaks if you are a complete novice who has never experienced any high-altitude trekking or climbing experiences before but you are motivated to conquer severe altitude mountains eventually. Join our beginner mountaineering adventures to Mera Peak 6476M or Yala Peak 5732M to start your climbing adventure. This trip aims to provide you with an introduction to the fundamentals and methods of mountaineering, as well as to test and familiarize yourself with high-altitude environments through a non-technical peak climbing experience in Nepal.

You’ll need to be in decent physical condition (run a 5K two to three times a week in addition to strength training), and once you’re done, the experience will boost your confidence enough to take on more challenging and semi-technical peaks.

BEGINNER TO INTERMEDIATE LEVEL – LOBUCHE EAST & ISLAND PEAK

You should have some experience climbing mountains and at high altitudes at this level. You know what kind of physical and mental condition is necessary to climb mountains at high altitudes. At this beginner+ to intermediate level, you will learn more about climbing on tough pitches at higher elevations. This means that in addition to introducing more challenging climbs, you will be reintroduced to all of the prior fundamental climbing abilities. You’ll pick up navigation skills for rough, snowy, and icy terrain. Take on steep mountain parts by scrambling/traversing exposed areas and jumping on a fixed-line rope.

These abilities are crucial as your mountaineering trip advances, and these kinds of expeditions will boost your confidence to take on more difficult and technically demanding peaks in the Himalayas or throughout the world. At this point, we advise climbers to attempt summits like Island Peak 6189M + Lobuche East 6019M, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Chulu West 6419M. Climbers aiming to advance to the Intermediate/+ level will find all the technical and physical obstacles they need on this trip.

INTERMEDIATE TO +/ADVANCED LEVEL – HIMLUNG HIMAL

You are completely set for the Himlung Himal Expedition at this point. Climbing the Himlung Himal is a mountaineering experience that should not be taken lightly. Beginning at 6300 meters, the climbing routes become quite exposed as we ascend the mountain’s last ridge segment to the summit. The expedition’s longest day is the summit day. You will be ascending the ridge slope part for a considerable amount of time with the help of your guide and secured to a fixed rope, which requires a lot of abseiling as you down the mountain. You will need to be physically and psychologically prepared, and patience, experience, and confidence are crucial.

This kind of 7000M trip will put you to the test. You will be tested further on your prior experience climbing, traversing, and abseiling on the exposed mixed part. At higher elevations, there will be two high alpine camps and longer, colder days. Compared to your prior adventures, you are intellectually and physically pushed for a longer amount of time and are continually exposed to the forces of nature. Because the climbing path faces west, the sun only reaches the slopes later in the day, making the climbing conditions chilly.

Compared to your prior camps, the last push day for the summit will be longer, harder, more rigorous, technically difficult, and emotionally taxing. Together with these skills, you will need to understand how a grouped expedition operates so that everyone can reach the common objective of summiting a 7,000-meter mountain. There may be weak links in the team, so you will need to make adjustments.

WHAT FORM OF TRAINING IS NEEDED FOR HIMLUNG HIMAL?

For those wishing to take on a semi-technical, high-altitude trip or their first 7000-meter summit, Himlung Himal is an excellent choice. With a high success rate, it is regarded as one of the safest and simpler 7000-meter mountains. It is crucial to remember that no mountain top is simple to reach and to take part, climbers must have prior high-altitude expertise (at or above 3000 meters). For those looking for a climbing trip that is both tough and feasible, Himlung Himal could be the ideal peak.

Mountains are ranked according to their physical and technical challenges. It might be challenging to replicate in your training the unique obstacles you’ll encounter on the mountain, such as navigating crevasses. Nonetheless, there are a few general fitness exercises that can improve your strength, stamina, and core stability. Cycling, long-distance running (10K–20K), long-distance trekking (6 hours+), and hiking with a weighted backpack are a few of them. To make sure that you are in optimal physical condition, we advise planning your training at least five to six months before to your climbing trip.

Training programs such as introductory climbing courses are also beneficial. Technical abilities include learning how to walk on ice, snow, and rock with crampons, ascend with a rope on five or six anchor points using ascenders, abseil effectively, and be aware of general gear safety checks.

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Preparation for successful Annapurna Base Camp Trek

ABC Trek

Last Updated on January 17, 2024 by Treks Planner Nepal

Preparation for successful Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Nepal offers amazing trekking experiences. One of the most breathtaking trails in the area is the ABC Trek. Annapurna Base Camp trek takes trekkers through the Annapurna Sanctuary National Park. The path begins by winding its way through picturesque rice paddies and forests before ascending to Annapurna Base Camp, which is located at an elevation of 4100 meters. As you ascend, the landscape rapidly shifts from a tropical jungle to knee-deep snowshoeing amidst breathtaking snow-capped peaks.

One of the most breathtaking treks in the world, the Annapurna Base Camp Trek passes through several climates, varied scenery, and culturally rich communities. Views of Fishtail, Hiunchuli, Annapurna Massif, Dhaulagiri, Tilicho, Pisang, Pungda Danda, and many more peaks are breathtaking from the Annapurna Base Camp. You will stop at the well-known Poon Hill viewpoint and unwind at Jhinu Danda’s natural hot spring pool along the route. This path is a popular substitute for the Everest Base Camp trip since it is shorter and less expensive. There are many trailheads from where you may access the trekking trail to Annapurna Base Camp. Depending on your route, the hike can take anywhere from six to twelve days.

Highlights of the Annapurna Trek in Nepal:

  • Annapurna I (8,091m / 26,545m), Dhaulagiri I (8,167m / 26,795ft), and Nilgiri (7,061m / 23,166ft) emerge in the morning light from the Poon Hill viewpoint.
  • Annapurna Base Camp (4,130m)
  • Rich wildlife and flora
  • Springtime in Jhinu Danda
  • Magnificent vistas of Machhapuchhare, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna, Annapurna III, South Annapurna I, and Khangsar
  • Ghandrunk’s charming villages and farmlands
  • A glimpse of life in rural Nepal
  • Natural Hotspring

Fitness and Physical Training

The Annapurna Base Camp Trek is categorized as moderately challenging trekking. You don’t need to have any prior expertise with technical mountain climbing or alpine trekking. It is important to note that the Annapurna Base Camp trek is a high-altitude hike, thus some preparation is advised.

Cardiovascular Aerobic Training

As one ascends higher into the atmosphere, the concentration of oxygen begins to fall. Additionally, your heart is working hard to pump blood and oxygen throughout your entire body when you are walking in such thin air.
For your body to operate properly, your heart must pump twice as hard.
Aerobic exercise is therefore the most important thing you should do before hitting the trail. It is best to begin planning six months before the trip if you are a novice. You need to have strong cardiovascular endurance if you plan to hike for several days or short days. Aerobic refers to the need for free oxygen. It describes using oxygen to sufficiently fulfill energy needs when exercising by aerobic metabolism.

  • Aerobic exercise mostly involves light to moderately intensive activities such as cycling, swimming, running, or any other activity that gets your heart and lungs pumping.
  • Aerobic exercise will help to adopt the maximum volume of oxygen that your body can use. This is very important for the trek.
  • As you gain altitude there will be less oxygen in the air for you to consume and each breath counts.
  • Alternatively, it’s also good to include hill training in your cardio training.
  • If you’re one of those people who go to the gym regularly, you can keep going at your own pace.
  • Even though you can extend the workout time a month or so before to improve your endurance level.
  • Thus, aerobic training will be a key factor in a comfortable Annapurna Base Camp trek experience in Nepal.
  • No matter how fit you are, your body needs time to adjust to the altitude. So, never rush up during your trekking period.
  • Try to ascend at your own pace.

Strength and Endurance

The purpose of strength training is to improve endurance. Your body will have to move you, your bag, and yourself up and down uneven terrain while you go trekking. It involves your quadriceps, calves, hamstrings, and hips.

Strength training is best accomplished with weights, bands, or gym machines in addition to quick hikes. This is essential if you want to hike for an extended length of time. Your body will become more resilient, and you’ll encounter fewer challenges. The goal of proper stretching exercises is to increase your body’s flexibility. You are less likely to sprain or strain yourself if your body is flexible.

Altitude Training

High altitude sickness is the most common situation while trekking. At higher elevations, the air becomes thinner and the oxygen content naturally drops. Your body, however, finds this intolerable; it suffers and needs to be comfortable. You experience nausea, vertigo, and dyspnea as a result—these are the classic signs of altitude sickness.

You might have altitude sickness even if you are physically fit. This is reliant on how your body adapts to the elevation change.

You can only imitate the training; it is very difficult to train at an actual altitude. One kind of exercise can involve sprinting back up flights of stairs. You may even take shorter hikes in your own country. Additionally, the packages you select will include days set aside for acclimatization. Altitude sickness is less likely to occur as a result. If you keep climbing higher, altitude sickness might get worse; you should stop and come down right away. However, the prevalence of altitude sickness is rather low.

Some Advice for Training for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

You need to train regardless of the mountain you want to climb. Being physically fit makes things a lot more enjoyable. Feeling powerful, all you have to do is concentrate on savoring the scenery and the journey.

  • Make sure you stay hydrated by consuming a lot of water. Altitude sickness symptoms can be reduced by drinking water.
  • Steer clear of coffee and alcohol. You become dehydrated from them.
  • A sharp decline in temperature might hurt your health. Decide to dress in layers. This allows you to remove it at any time.
  • Communicate effectively at all times. Discuss your physical state with your companion or ask the tour guide or leader. Never assume that any symptom is normal.
  • Remember, this isn’t a race, so don’t rush things. Hike slowly and steadily, taking your time. This is the ideal hiking technique. Your body won’t be exerting itself excessively and you’ll arrive at your destination on schedule.

How to Get Ready for Annapurna Base Camp with the Right Gear, Supplies, and Equipment

  • Good clothing and equipment are necessary for any high-altitude hikes to fully enjoy the experience without being interrupted by difficulties, weather, climate, or temperature. A few essentials you should have ready for Annapurna Base Camp
  • Excellent hiking socks that shield your feet from the cold and frostbite and sturdy, waterproof hiking shoes that assist you on your daily walks in challenging terrain.
  • Warm and well-fitting coats. You should always have a warm jacket on hand in case the tea house or lodge doesn’t have heaters in the rooms. All you can hope for is a fireplace inside.
  • Having a sleeping bag will come in handy during the chilly nights in the high-altitude region.
  • A quality water bottle with pills for water filtration. Dehydration can strike suddenly and result in headaches, rashes in the upper body, and discomfort. Although there may be water stations along the way, the water is not particularly pure and can lead to several dangerous illnesses, therefore you should have tablets for water purification when trekking.
  • sunglasses and a sunhat. Sunburn happens faster in the higher altitudes of the hike.
  • Thus, ensure that you have all of the personal necessities, including supplies, gear, equipment, and equipment that you can affordably buy or rent in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

Conclusion

Every hike to the high altitude zone requires preparation. Even though the Annapurna Base Camp trip is a popular, moderate trip that anybody can finish with many memories and experiences, you should be ready and train yourself to walk for four to six hours each day at an altitude of an incline. The secret to any hike in the mountainous area is to go slowly and steadily. The trekkers themselves will benefit from this journey.

The Annapurna region offers a wide range of trials from which to select one that best suits your needs and comfort level. In case you have any questions about trekking in Nepal, you may also get in touch with us.

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Climbing Ama Dablam and Lobuche Peak: Two 6000ers Peak

Ama Dablam Expediton

Last Updated on January 11, 2024 by Treks Planner Nepal

Climbing Ama Dablam and Lobuche Peak: Two 6000ers Peak. The Lobuche Mountain consists of two distinct summits, East and West, which are 6,119 and 6,145 meters high, respectively. Even though a continuous ridge runs between them, there is still a noticeable space and a sharp separation. While the West mountain is referred to as an Expedition Peak, the East Peak is designated as a trekking peak. Being a beautiful mountain, Lobuche provides various established routes and the possibility of new ones. The south ridge is formed by the black triangle of its stony east face, which rises over the Khumbu Glacier’s mountains to a breathtaking skyline.

Nestled in the Himalayan range in Eastern Nepal, Ama Dablam—also called the “Matterhorn of the Himalaya”—is one of the world’s most breathtaking mountains. Ama Dablam distinguishes itself by having a distinct pyramid form. The name “Ama Dablam” comes from the hanging glacier on the southwest face of Ama Dablam, which resembles the holy adornment box used by Sherpa women and is called Dablam. This mountain is elevated 6,812 meters above sea level. This mountain is remarkable not because of its height but because of its beauty. Situated south of Mount Everest in Nepal’s Khumbu area lies Mt. Ama Dablam. While climbing to the summit, one should be treated to some breathtaking vistas.

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LOBUCHE PEAK HIGHLIGHTS:

  • Reach the 6,119-meter-high summit of Lobuche East Peak.
  • Catch a glimpse of the magnificent Himalayan landscape from the summit.
  • Heavenly vistas of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Amadablam, Mt.
  • Pumori, and several more peaks will leave you utterly delighted.
  • Go close to Khumbu Glacier, the tallest glacier in the world.
  • Walk the renowned Everest Base Camp Trek route to Lobuche.
  • Discover the culture and distinctively formed Sherpa villages.
  • Walk through deep woods, past prayer flags, gompas, and monasteries, and over
  • suspension bridges.

AMA DABLAM HIGHLIGHTS

  • Lobuche East (6119M) and Ama Dablam 6812M (Acclimatization training peak)
  • Route around the south-west ridge, Camps 1–2 (maybe Camps 2.9 or 3)
  • Ten days in the 4570-meter-high Ama Dablam Base Camp
  • The expedition’s guide-to-climber ratio is one-to-one.
  • Beautiful Khumbu Valley Trek

MOUNTAIN GRADING

Lobuche Peak Grading (ALPINE/FITNESS): PD+ / 3.
Ama Dablam Grading (ALPINE/FITNESS): TD / 5.

Know More About Alpine/Fitness Grading

As our training and acclimatization peak before we head to Ama Dablam Base Camp, we will be climbing Lobuche East.

LOBUCHE PEAK TECHNICALITY

The rated PD alpine peak Lobuche East (6119 meters) features extensive glaciers and some tricky climbing. Climbers participating in this expedition should have some basic mountaineering expertise, such as rock scrambling and using crampons and ice axes to climb on snow or ice. It is ideal if you have taken basic winter or alpine courses, where you are fully versed in the fundamental technical aspects of alpine climbing. Although it is primarily meant to serve as a skill refresher, the trip will include a day of basic skill instruction.

AMA DABLAM CLIMBING TECHNIQUES

We will set up two to three camps and ascend along the southwest ridge, which is the safest path, during the Ama Dablam trek. Following our setup at Base Camp, we will ascend the moraine to reach Camp 1 (5,807 meters/19,052 feet). To get from Camp 1 to Camp 2, fixed-line ropes are used for climbing over snow-covered, rocky, exposed ridges, and vertical granite as well as for traversing solid granite. It takes 60 to 70 feet of vertical rock climbing to reach Camp 2 (6,200 meters/20,594 feet), also called the “YELLOW TOWER.” This is the beginning of the most challenging and demonstrably risky section of the climb.

CAMP 1 (5800M) AND CAMP 2 (6100M) OF BASE CAMP (4529M) ROTATION

We will review our climbing techniques and conduct a few acclimatization rotations from Days 12 to 19–20 to fully acclimate the body for the final summit push. We will transport and keep our personal belongings at our camps during these cycles.

Although the slope on Ama Dablam is not as severe as one might imagine, the route’s extreme exposure makes for interesting climbing. This route is suitable for climbers with an intermediate level of technical skill. On the summit day, the path goes straight to the 6,810-meter peak by a snow arête that passes between ice cliffs. But the ascent is strenuous on the body and takes a lot of climbing time on the summit day.

CAMP 2.1 And  3 (6400M) (SITUATIONAL) AND SUMMIT BID

We shall assess the serac’s safety and conditions before determining whether to establish camp 3. We will try our summit from Camp 2, beginning in the early hours, if our lead Sherpa finds that the campsite is risky. (at midnight or one in the morning)
When conditions are clear, Ama Dablam’s wide peak provides stunning vistas. From the summit of Ama Dablam, one can see other 8000- and 7000-meter peaks, such as Makalu (8463 meters) and the Baruntse range (7170 meters).

Before considering Ama Dablam, one needs to train in the techniques of rock and ice climbing and acclimate to high altitudes. The Ama Dablam Expedition is for you if you have climbing expertise and want to go with a group to the most amazing peak in the world.

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION COST AND SERVICE INCLUDE

The cost of the Ama Dablam and Lobuch Peak expedition (please click here for pricing). Our team offers excellent, comprehensive services that include one-on-one climbing assistance, experts from the area who impart their cultural and traditional knowledge, an emphasis on safety, a successful summit plan, and excellent base camp support. For climbers to have the best possible climbing experience, our staff is committed to operating as a responsible, upright, and sustainable mountain adventure company.

COST INCLUDES:

  • Airport Pick-Up & Drop Services
  • Accommodations & Meals:(All twin sharing basis)
  • 1:1 Sherpa Guide /client ratio.
  • Lobuche East 6019M acclimatization peak
  • Flight / Transportation All domestic airfares as per the Itinerary
  • Climbing/Trekking permit: All necessary Trekking permits
  • National Park Fare: All necessary National Park entrance fee
  • First Aid: Medical kit box during the trip
  • Trekking guide during the trek and climbing Sherpa while climbing
  • Required porters to carry luggage and other essential supplies
  • Special climbing permits and their procedure
  • Garbage deposit fees
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staff during the trip
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication with company staff and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
  • Gamow Bags/Oxygen
  • Climbing/Trekking Equipment: Duffel Bag, T-shirt, Down jacket, and four seasonal sleeping bags (which need to be returned after the trek), Altitude Chamber: Portable Altitude Chamber on request
  • Certificate: Trek Planner adventure certificate
  • Others: All applicable government and local taxes as per the itinerary
Lobuche Peak Package Details

ARE THERE ANY REQUIREMENTS TO CLIMB AMA DABLAM?

Lobuche East and Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak excursions, Aconcagua, Mt. Blanc (or peaks that are similar to those at elevations of 4000–6000 meters) and multi-pitch rock or ice climbing, with grades ranging from 5–9+/– to 5.10 a, b, and c.

If someone is considering climbing Ama Dablam, they should have a lot of experience with high-altitude climbing, preferably having climbed many peaks between 4000 and 6000 meters that need semi-technical to technical climbing techniques. Those who thrive on the difficulties of alpine climbing often travel to Ama Dablam. Ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending these peaks often demand a high level of technical competence. To embark on the difficult ascent of Ama Dablam, one would need to have prior expertise in climbing similar heights.

CHOOSING THE BEST-ACCLIMATED PLAN FOR AMMA DABLAM CLIMBING

For any high-altitude climbing adventure to be successful, proper acclimatization is essential. As part of our acclimatization approach, our crew will rotate between Camps 1 and 2, according to the maxim “climb high, sleep low”. With our years of expertise, we have meticulously designed the schedule to provide your excursion with the maximum chance of success.

We will also climb Lobuche East as an acclimatization/training peak as part of the Ama Dablam climbing expedition. We will have a fully furnished base camp and two high camps (Camps 1 and 2, with a possible Camp 2.7 depending on circumstances) during the real Ama Dablam ascent.

Ama Dablam Expedition Package Details

OUTLINE ITINERARY:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300m) and transfer to hotel.
Day 02: Trip briefing, paperwork, checking equipment & sightseeing around Kathmandu Valley.
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) and trek to Phakding (2610m) Duration: 4-5 hours.
Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m) Duration 5-6 hours.
Day 05: Acclimatization Day at Namche Bazaar: (3,440m/11,284ft )
Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft) Duration: 5-6 hours.
Day 07: Trek from Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m/14,300 ft) Duration 5-6 hours
Day 08: Acclimatization day at Dingboche and hike to Chukkung Valley (4730m) Duration: 4-5 hours.
Day 09: Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (4930) Duration: 5-6 hours.
Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Lobuche Base Camp (4865m/15,957 ft) Duration 3-4 hours.
Day 11: Trek from Lobuche Base Camp to Lobuche High Camp (5,600m/18,368 ft) Duration: 3-4 hours.
Day 12: Summit Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,070 ft) & back to Base Camp Duration: 7-10 hours.
Day 13: Trek from Lobuche Base Camp to Pangobche (3930 m / 12900 ft) Duration: 5-6 hours.
Day 14: Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Basecamp (4,450m)
Day 15-26: Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam 6,812m)
Day 27: Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Tengboche(3860M approx 6 hrs walk)
Day 28: Trek from Tengboche to Monju (2800m approx 07 hrs walk)
Day 29: Trek from Manju to Lukla(2840m approx 5 hrs walk)
Day 30: Extra day in case needed
Day 31: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 32: Final Departure

Contact us for details: