Island Peak Vs Mera Peak Climbing: How to Choose the right peak. One of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal is the Mera Peak and Island Peak. These summits are among the top options for novice mountain climbers just getting started. These two mountains are among the most prominent trekking peaks in Nepal. But, many climbers find it difficult to choose between these two peaks. We have created a thorough guide for Mera Peak and Island Peak to help beginner climbers to choose the right peak for them. Both peaks do not necessitate a specific level of mountaineering expertise, but many other characteristics set them apart. Mera Peak is considered to be the simpler one to scale from a safety perspective, while Island Peak offers more exhilaration from mountain climbing.
QUICK FACTS: ISLAND PEAK VS MERA PEAK CLIMBING
| TOPIC | ISLAND PEAK | MERA PEAK |
| ALTITUDE | 6189m/20305ft | Mera North: 6476m/ 21247ft Mera Central: 6461m/21198ft Mera South: 6065m/ 19898ft |
| ACTIVITY | Trekking/Climbing | Trekking Peak/Climbing |
| DIFFICULTY | Moderate to Strenuous | Moderate |
| REGION | Khumbu | Mahalangur Himalaya |
| CLIMBING GRADE | The French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Classification System – PD + ‘Per Difficult’ | The French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Classification System – F’ Facial Easy’ |
| NATIONAL PARK | Sagarmatha National Park | Makalu Barun National Park |
| TREKKING PEAK | 2nd Highest Trekking Peak | Highest Trekking Peak |
| PERMITS | Island Peak Climbing Permit Sagarmatha National Park Khumbu Region TIMS Card | Mera Peak Climbing Permit Makalu Barun National Park TIMS Card |
HIGHLIGHTS: ISLAND PEAK VS MERA PEAK CLIMBING
| ISLAND PEAK HIGHLIGHTS | MERA PEAK HIGHLIGHTS |
| 1. Explore the amazing Khumbu region. | 1. Explore the isolated Hinku Valley. |
| 2. From Island Peak’s summit, you can see Makalu (8,475 meters) in the east, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam in the south, and the enormous peaks of Nuptse (7,879 meters), Lhotse (8,501 meters), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410 meters), and Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters), which form a semicircle to the north. | 2. Witness five of the world’s tallest mountains above 8000 meters, including Cho Oyu (8,201 meters), Lhotse (8,516 meters), Everest (8,848 meters), Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters), and Makalu (8,463 meters). |
| 3. Discover Sherpa ethnic towns, some of the most endangered wildlife in the Himalayas, and magnificent Himalayan green forests with rhododendron, magnolia, birch, and pine. | 3. Discover the unique Himalayan species, rhododendron, magnolia, birch, and pine woods, as well as Sherpa culture, traditions, and customs. |
| 4. Wander through the revered religious places in the Khumbu valley, such as Tengboche Monastery, Khumbu Monastery, and a great number of chortens, and prayer wheels.. | 4. Walk through sacred Buddhist temples, monasteries, chortens, gompas, mane walls, prayer wheels, and fluttering prayer flags. |
| 5. Cross Kongma La pass and then go across the Lhotse Glacier. | 5. Cross Zatrwa La Pass (4600 m/14720 ft.) |
SIMILARITIES BETWEEN MERA PEAK AND ISLAND PEAK CLIMBING
The Barun sub-section of the Mahalangur region of the Nepalese Himalayas contains Mera Peak and Island Peak. Both summits are almost the same height; Mera is 6,461 meters (21,190 feet) tall while Island is 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). The two summits are also quite close to one another. Both Mera and Island are trekking peaks that don’t call for specialized climbing expertise. Despite their many similarities, Island Peak and Mera Peak both have unique adventures to offer travelers.
DIFFICULTY: ISLAND PEAK VS MERA PEAK CLIMBING
| ISLAND PEAK | MERA PEAK |
| The difficulty of Island Peak is somewhat higher than that of Mera Peak. In terms of technical difficulty, the summit is a little tougher than the Mera summit. Except that the two climbs are quite similar to one another. For beginning and novice climbers, a trekking peak is the best choice. If you have basic knowledge of climbing it would be a plus point as island peak climbing is a little tricky. There are headwall and icefall parts, as well as crevasses and narrow ridges. Therefore, you will not have any trouble using gears like ropes, ladders, crampons, axes, etc. Additionally, no specific prior technical knowledge is required to climb Island Peak. Major difficulties include trekking at high altitudes, lengthy trekking days, steep paths, harsh terrain, severe weather, and snowy terrain. For Island Peak climbing, you need to be physically fit and have an excellent basis for climbing. | According to the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Mera Peak is considered a trekking peak. Peaks in this category have little or no challenging aspects, which perfectly suit the requirements of beginners. The ascent is quite straightforward because this summit has no challenging aspects. Climbers with some basic climbing experience and good stamina can opt for this climb. For Mera Peak, prior climbing experience is not necessary. Mera Peak is less complicated than Island Peak in comparison. There are no crevasses or narrow ridges; only ice climbing and trekking. Trekking in the region’s high terrain for several weeks is required for the climb of Mera Peak. Its main difficulties are high altitude, steep hills, rugged terrain, icy and snowy trails, lengthy trekking hours, and isolated areas. |
ROUTE: ISLAND PEAK VS MERA PEAK CLIMBING
| ISLAND PEAK | MERA PEAK |
| An exceptional fusion of a mountaineering trip with trekking can be experienced in the Island Peak climbing. The route takes the traditional Everest Base Camp Trek route and adds a climbing route to High Camp and ultimately the summit. In comparison to climbing Mera Peak, the summit stage of this climb involves a vigorous rise and is thus a little more difficult and tricky. Island Peak ascent takes place over the course of 15 days. Additionally, if you wish to hike to Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp, the itinerary is extended to 18 or 20 days. | Prior to ascending the summit, climbers have to trek for almost a week to reach Mera Peak High Camp (5,780m ). Through the lush jungle and secluded valleys, the trekking trails extend to Hinku Valley. The path goes on from Lukla to Hinku Valley. The main resting areas before Mera High Camp are Paiya, Kothe, Panggom, Thankak, and Khare. From the camp, gradually climb to the peak using jumars and a fixed rope. The hike and ascent up Mera Peak may be completed in roughly 13 – 18 days. |
BEST SEASON FOR CLIMBING MERA AND ISLAND PEAK
Mera Peak and Island Peak are said to be best conquered in the spring and fall. The best times to ascend to the top are in late April, early May, as well as in September, October, and November. And if you want us to be more precise, the ideal months for a climbing excursion are October and May. Mountaineering is seen as being out of season during the winter and monsoon. Despite this, some climbers attempt to reach the summit during the winter. The disadvantages of climbing in the off-season include the need to be prepared for unanticipated events that are associated with adverse weather, such as heavy snowfall, the potential for aircraft delays and cancellations, and decreased visibility.
Spring and fall offer the greatest views of the mountains since the weather is steady and the sky is clear. The best weather for climbing is present throughout the day in spring or fall. For the finest climbing experience, especially for beginning climbers, climbing during the ideal season is crucial.
