Alpine and Fitness Grading for peak climbing and mountaineering expeditions in Nepal.
F (Easy)
These routes require some rock scrambling, but they entail easy glacier navigation. You can often climb without a rope, except in the glacier areas.
PD (Little Difficult)
These routes pass via several tough glaciers and complex climbing portions. There might be a few brief stretches of very steep ground. For beginners, these are suitable introductory climbs.
Fairly Difficult (AD)
Experienced alpine climbers should be prepared for the physical demands of these climbs. Usually, they have exposed, steep climbing areas or snow/ice slopes that are higher than 50°. A rope is required for most of the climb due to the lengthy and intricate descents.
D (Difficult)
These routes require long-term ice climbing, rock climbing, or snowshoeing. They need a great deal of dedication and are considered a major commitment.
TD (Very Difficult)
Long lengths, isolated settings, and challenging multi-pitch climbing sections are characteristics of challenging climbs. In addition, there are frequently additional risks like as inclement weather (high winds, bitter cold) or inadequate protection along the routes.
ED (extremely challenging)
These are extremely tough climbs—the hardest in the world, in fact—that present constant challenges. It takes several days to complete them.
FITNESS GRADING
GRADE: 1
Adequate physical condition to enjoy daily walks lasting six to seven hours. Must be able to carry five to eight kilograms of weight during trekking.
GRADE: 2
Decent levels of strength and cardiovascular fitness are required. You can exercise by cycling or running for thirty minutes or more, three times a week, along with an endurance or lower body straightening workout at the gym. Capable of carrying 10 kg during the trek.
GRADE: 3
Both strength and endurance fitness levels require a high degree of fitness. Capable of carrying 8–12 kg of weight. This kind of fitness can only be attained through training or gym sessions. Prior multi-day hill walking experience is a must.
GRADE: 4
Due to the incredibly demanding nature of these treks, an extraordinary degree of physical fitness will be needed. It takes exceptionally high levels of strength and endurance fitness. It is equally necessary to possess mental toughness. Being able to lead tours of this physical grading requires experience.
GRADE: 5
Outstanding level of physical fitness combined with the capacity to adapt and endure at the highest altitude. A very high degree of mental toughness and an exceptional level of physical and endurance conditioning are needed. A prolonged ability to withstand harsh weather conditions. Carrying heavy goods over several days might be necessary. Prior experience is extremely important to prime your body to withstand extreme mental and physical strain from terrain and altitude.
Rock Climbing Route Grade
Class 5:
Protective gear and technical, belayed roping are needed. Not recommended for inexperienced climbers. A Class 5 fall has the potential to be lethal.
Class 5 divisions
5.1–5.4:
Easy. A steep part with many footholds and handholds. Appropriate for novices.
5.5–5.8:
Moderate. Handholds and footholds are small. Low-angle terrain that is vertical. Expert to intermediate rock-climbing skills are necessary.
5.9–5.10:
Difficult. Technical, vertical, and possibly with overhangs. The majority of weekend climbers can acquire the precise climbing skills needed for these challenging routes.
5.11–5.12:
Difficult to Hard. Technical, vertical, and maybe with little holds on the overhangs. This level can be attained by committed climbers with a lot of effort.
Ice Climbing Grading
WI-1:
General angle: 50 degrees. Simple, low-angled ice. climbing ice where crampons are required. The least difficult ice to belay with a rope. For safety, a fundamental level of technical expertise is needed. 50 degrees is the general angle.
WI-2:
General angle: 60°: Moderate, low-angled, and perhaps bulging. Strong anchors and protection.
WI-3:
Suitable rests and optimal positions for screw placement; general angle: 70º with potential lengthy bulges of 80º–90º. longer bulges and steeper water ice. There is some constant front-pointing, but there are also nice breaks in between. Generally excellent protection, screws can be inserted while in a comfortable position. The quality of the ice is often good. demands skill in setting up protection and setting belays.
WI-4:
80 degrees is the general angle. Long-term climbing is interspersed with some vertical portions and well-executed belays. The ice is normally of good quality and provides secure protection for belays, yet it may contain certain technical elements like chandeliers. requires screws to be put on vertical or very vertical ice most of the time. Long stretches of 90º ice were interspersed with rests now and again.
WI-5:
The angle of orientation: 90 degrees. Long and arduous, with only a few decent rests due to the rope’s 85º–90º length. Proficiency in handling various ice formations, such as chandeliers, cauliflowers, and candled portions, is necessary. To provide enough protection, work must be put in. Occasionally, the ascent can be exhausted above the safety net. Belays could be challenging to make and/or hang.
WI-6:
90+ degrees is the general angle. a significant lead on thin or severe ice. extended periods of verticality and/or overhang, particularly persistent challenges. Not many, if any, places to rest. Perhaps not the highest quality ice—it’s frequently thin, chandeliered, and difficult to keep safe. Prerequisites include masterful technique and a strong, optimistic mindset. You might need to use questionable hanging belays.
WI-7:
90++ is the general angle. Very thin, lengthy, overhanging, or extremely difficult ice. Free-hanging columns of dubious adhesion. It takes creativity to find protection and climb this grade. There might not be any protection. an emotional and physical pitch. Complete dedication is necessary. It is difficult or impossible to locate protection, and the quality is questionable. Belays may be mediocre at best and demand an extremely high degree of skill. There are very few routes with this grade, and even fewer elite climbers that lead them.