Mera and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass - 27 Days

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Group size: 2 Pax Max-Altitude: 6,476m/21,247ft
Destination: Nepal
Arrival on: Kathmandu Departure from: Kathmandu
Meals: Full board on trek
Accommodation: Camping & teahouse
Fitness level: Strenuous

Trip Introduction

The Mera – Amphu Laptsa – Island Peak Climbing - 27 Days is an outstanding introduction to high altitude mountaineering in the Everest region. Mera (6476m/21,246ft) & Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft) are two of the most popular trekking peaks in the Nepal Himalaya and this expedition combines climbs on both mountains with a trek through the remote Honku Valley and a crossing of the magnificent and technical Amphu Laptsa Pass. The generous itinerary ensures proper acclimatization and we have plenty of contingency days in the event of inclement weather. Being slight to the south of the main range, Mera offers spectacular views from Kanchenjunga in the east to the Langtang region in the west. Island Peak is located right in the heart of the Khumbu area and although it is overshadowed by the tremendous Lhotse Face to the north, the views from the summit are truly extraordinary.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 02: Fly to Lukla and Trek to Puiyan - Altitude: 2800m/9184ft | MEAL: B
Day 03: Trek to Pangkongma - Altitude: 2,850m/9348ft | Trek: 4-5 hrs | MEAL: BLD 
Day 04: Trek to Nashing Dingma - Altitude: 2600m/8528ft | Trek: 5-6 Hrs | MEAL: BLD 
Day 05: Trek to Chalem Kharka - Altitude: 3600m/11808ft | Trek: 5-6 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 06: Trek to Chunbu Kharka - Altitude: 4200m/13776ft | Trek: 5-6 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 07: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka | MEAL: BLD
Day 08: Trek to Hinku valley camp - Altitude: 3600m/11808ft | Trek: 5-6 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 09 - 10: Trek to Tagnag - Altitude: 4400m/14432ft | Trek: 5-7 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 11: Trek to Khare - Altitude: 4,940m/16203ft | Trek: 3-4 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 12: Trek to Mera Base Camp - Altitude: 5000m/16400ft | Trek: 3-4 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 13 - 15: Summit attempt on Mera - Altitude: 6,476m/21,247ft | Trek: 5-9 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 16 - 17: Trek to the Hunku Valley | Trek: 5-7 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 18: Rest day at Amphu Laptsa base camp | MEAL: BLD
Day 19 - 20: Cross Amphu Laptsa - (Altitude: 5845m/19171ft) to Island Base Camp - Altitude: 5100m/16728ft | Trek: 8-9 Hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 21: Summit Island Peak - Altitude: 6,189m/20,305ft | Trek: 8-9 hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 22 - 24: Trek to Lukla | Trek: 4-7 hrs | MEAL: BLD
Day 25: Fly to Kathmandu | MEAL: B
Day 26: Spare Day | MEAL: B
Day 27: Departure | MEAL: B

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264 ft)
At the airport, you will be met by our representative and transferred to the Hotel. Your kit bag containing sleeping bag, down jacket will be issued upon arrival and individual equipment/gear checks will be held during the afternoon. A pre-trek briefing will be held in the evening.

Day 02: Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu & trip preparation day
This morning final gear checks will be held and afterward, we will depart for a sightseeing tour. You will take to the key attractions in Kathmandu at the pilgrimage sites of Hindus temple Pashupatinath, the world biggest Bouddhanath Stupa and visit Swyambhunath Stupa also known as monkey temple. After exploring the surrounding areas visit historical Kathmandu Durbar Square with a temple, unique architectures and Kumari (living goddess). Evening pre-trip discussion and introduce with our fellow trekking staff for your adventure trip.

Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m/9184ft) & commence trekking to Puiyan (2800m/9184ft) 
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Puiyan.

Day 04: Trek to Pangkongma (2,850m/9348ft), 4-5 hrs walk 
After breakfast crosses the Poyan Khola, then we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma. Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.

Day 05: Trek to Nashing Dingma (2600m/8528ft), 5-6 hrs walk 
Today we climb the half hour or so to the Pangum La (3175m/10410ft) and our gateway toward the Hinku Valley, and now start to head eastward and then in a northerly direction. Today is a solid descent to the Hinku River of at least 900 meters depending on which path we take, and then a climb up to our camp high on the other side near the Surke La. We are once again traveling through a mix of terraced slopes containing grain crops interspersed by undisturbed forests of the upper temperate zone; maples, rhododendrons, and fir.

Day 06: Trek to Chalem Kharka (3600m/11808ft), 5-6 hrs walk 
After breakfast we climb up to the Source La (3085m/10118ft) we now follow the spine of the Surkie Danda ridge northwards towards Mera and the Hinku and camp part way along at a yak herder clearing or kharka. These next few days are far from teahouse and trekkers trails and should be some of the finest Himalayan wilderness trekking of the trip.

Day 07: Trek to Chunbu Kharka (4200m/13776ft), 5-6 hrs walk 
Continuing along the ridge, we climb higher and higher over knolls (lumps in the ridge) of 4000 meters and then 4500 meters. The terrain has now elevated well above the tree line and is grassy slopes and rocky outcrops and cliffs, where birds of prey may be seen flying overhead such as Griffon vulture, lammergeyer or eagles. We then descend to a camp set near a series of five lakes, Panch Pokhari, set beside the river of the Chunbu Kharka.

Day 08: Rest day at Chunbu Kharka 
Today is a rest day and a lovely natural setting to explore further.

Day 09: Trek to Hinku valley camp (3600m/11808ft), 5-6 hrs walk 
Our route now contours around many ridges on the eastern side of the Hinku, descending lower into forests of rhododendron. Near the valley floor we encounter the devastation caused by a natural dam at the head of the valley bursting in 1998. The valley has been destroyed, leaving boulders, dead trees and silt where once there were old growth forests and meadows. Our campsite is on a pleasant grassy patch, on the now much higher bank of the rocky riverbed.

Day 10 & 11: Trek to Tagnag (4400m/14432ft), 5-7 hrs walk 
Today we are now in the Hinku Valley proper, and cross over by way of a yak herder's bridge and join the main trail. The first settlement we stay at the busy village of Kote, primarily servicing the trekking groups that come through for Mera. As a result of the tremendous washout of boulders and debris, the trail follows the riverbed mostly, a good trail among rounded stones and silt. We gain our first views of dramatic peaks of the valley; Kusum Kanguru to our left that stands directly before us. The path then weaves up on to the pastures on the left-hand side and pleasant easy trails through to Tagnag. Today we also enjoy our first views of Mera, initially at the confluence of the Sanu Drangka above Kote, if the weather is clear we see the dramatic south face, and then on our final approach into Tagnag. We are now among the mountains and starting to prepare for our climb.

Day 12: Trek to Khare (4,940m/16203ft), 3-4 hrs walk 
Today we can experience an excellent valley opening out views to the north of the Hinku Nup glacier and the line of peaks beyond. Behind us is the dramatic spire of the less than romantically named 'Peak 35', which has yet to be climbed. Only the last section up to our base camp at Khare is steep and reminds us that we are gaining altitude. It's a short climb and we are there in good time for lunch.

Day 13: Trek to Mera Base Camp (5000m/16400ft), 3-4 hrs walk 
A steady climb out of the valley and up through lateral moraine and grassy culverts to our last camp below the snowline. The route itself is fairly straightforward, there are objective hazards and good basic technique and awareness of changing conditions is vital for every individual.

Day 14 -16: Summit attempt on Mera (6,476m/21,247ft), 5-9 hrs walk 
These three days going to plan and the weather on our side, we would move up to a rock and glaciated camp just off the Mera La saddle at approx 5400m/17712ft. Plastic mountaineering boots are usually worn from the base through to the summit bid and return. Whilst they feel clumsy they are perfect for the job, providing warmth, protection and stability for the variable terrain including loose rocks, snow and ice. Another camp is set half way up the long North Slope of the mountain, at about 5700m/18696ft near a rock knob. Although it is a shorter distance here, it can be difficult in poor conditions and you are at altitude and are harder and further than it first appears. The summit bid will be made early in the morning (anywhere from 2am to 5am) from this high camp, and take around 4 to 6 hours to make the summit. Whilst the distance doesn't look far, we can assure you it will be hard work, and all the preparations and a positive, tempered attitude will pay off here. It is usually necessary to rope up for much of the summit approach due to crevasse hazards along the route. The route can vary depending on the conditions of the season but usually skirts around a major shoulder in front of us to the back side of the mountain and then traverse in a fairly straightforward approach to the summit knob. As the light comes, we enjoy incredible views across to Baruntse (7129m), Chamlang (7319m) and Nau Lekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. Further to our left is Everest, peaking over several unnamed peaks of the Hinku. To the south, we can see for miles down to the terrain. We aim to make the summit early/mid-morning and return to base camp after the summit. The exact schedule will depend on many factors, including the weather, condition of the route and condition of the members. Our contingency of equipment and experienced staff and a time buffer, gives us a fair amount of flexibility to achieve success for all who have worked hard and consistently from the beginning of the expedition. The day will be long, and this is where all the training beforehand, the trek approach, and the right attitude will combine to give you stamina and confidence to be part of a sound team, with optimum chances for the summit.

Day 17 & 18: Commence trek into the Hunku Valley, 5-7 hrs walk 
We will need to make a relatively early start today. Once our porters are organized we will commence our most remote stages of the expedition. We descend into the Honku valley near to five large glacial lakes which sprawl out before us. They are known as Panch Pokhari (five lakes). The Amphu Laptsa pass is situated immediately at the head of the valley to our right and is basically the low point on the ridge between the Hunku and the Imja valleys. For this day or so we are in the Hunku. A new vista of peaks span out before us including Ama Dablam to the distant westward, and many unnamed peaks. Camp is set close to the rocks that lead up to the pass. On these stages, we ask that members be flexible and co-operative. Camps will be set where conditions allow, and your leader will keep you advised as to each days plan.

Day 19: Rest day at Amphu Laptsa base camp 
Final preparations and gear checks for our pass crossing Amphu Laptsa.

Day 20 & 21: Cross Amphu Laptsa (5845m/19171ft) to Island Peak Base Camp (5100m/16728ft), 8-9 hrs walk 
After early breakfast an alpine start for our pass crossing. Once again, ferrying across all our loads together with all party members, crew, porters and members takes time. The approach to the pass from the Hunku is deceptive. Facing east and southward there is much more sun and little snow, just a collection of rocks that gradually lead up to the gap we travel through. On the north facing side, we find steep slopes of snow that we must take care to descend by fixed ropes to the snow basins below and subsequent moraine and alpine valley beyond. The views from this pass crossing to the peaks of Khumbu are unmatched. Any spare moment one may have whilst we are climbing and descending will allow one to appreciate the spectacle of the peaks of the region.

Day 22: Summit Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft), 8-9 hrs walk 
An alpine start sees us climbing steeply up the lower flanks of the south-east face. The track is well used as this is a popular peak. At times there is a bit of rock scrambling and the rocky spur takes us to a snow ramp that leads to the upper snow fields. The peaks of Makalu and Lhotse come into view as we climb higher. Upon crossing the upper nave, it is necessary to fix ropes up a short but steep ice face that leads on to the summit ridge. The summit ridge is a classic alpine ridge and quite exposed, (we fix ropes here also) and traverse our way to the summit. Although Island Peak appears dwarfed by the seven and eight thousanders surrounding it, it provides a magnificent vantage point to all the peaks south of the stupendous Lhotse face. After some exhilarating moments on the summit we descend by the same route to our base.

Day 23 - 25: Trek to Lukla, 4-7 hrs walk 
We begin our exit trek descending through the famous Khumbu Valley to Tangboche Monastery and Namche Bazaar. Namche is known as the Sherpa capital and it is a great place to wonder around, visit the Tibetan stalls or enjoy the Swiss bakeries. We descend the slopes of Namche to the Dudh Kosi joining the main trail to follow at riverside through numerous villages to Phakding. On crossing the bridge, we trek a short distance up and around, to the broad flat spur that Lukla lies upon. The last night is always memorable for an end of trip celebration with all the crew and porters.

Day 26: Fly to Kathmandu 
After an early morning flight to Kathmandu, our guide transfer you to your hotel. You may have time to relax after long journey and take back your breath and rest at your hotel with ending your Himalayan trip with us. The remainder of the day is at leisure to rest, relax or explore and shop in the town.

Day 27: Departure 
Today is free or last minute shopping for souvenirs or gift to your family, friends or relatives for you until your departure flight/drive or to commence any extra trips or activities you may have booked with us. If departing, you'll be transferred to the International Airport for your departure flight to your onwards destination.

Important Note

Because of bad weather, we could face the problem of domestic flights to/from Lukla delayed by few hours or canceled for a day or more. Very rarely, but it could happen even in best trekking season also as you know how climate changes affecting our globe. Thus, we always recommend you to add supplement night/s in Kathmandu after your trek if possible (just for in case). If everything runs smoothly, you can enjoy other activities like sightseeing, White water rafting, wildlife activities, shopping, as you wish in those additional days. However, if you want Heli rescue in the state of flight cancellation to/from Lukla-we can organize it as per your request. 

Included / Exclude

Service Includes

  • Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop off service by a private tourist vehicle.
  • 3 nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu on twin sharing basis with breakfast
  • Full board meals during the trek (Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
  • Necessary group climbing gear (Climbing rope, ice axe, ice crew, and snow bar)
  • Kathmandu- Lukla- Kathmandu flight, airport taxes, and transfer
  • Everest National Park Permit 
  • Khumbu permit
  • Island Peak Special Climbing Permit
  • Makalu Barun National Park Permit
  • One experienced Climbing guide (English speaking, first aid trained, trained & licensed from Nepal Mountaineering Association- Rock climbing and mountaineering trained)
  • Required Porters 
  • First Aid service (Basic), Official duffel bag and T-Shirt, and Adventure certificate after the completion of the trip
  • Sleeping bag and down jacket
  • Oximeter - To determine your normal oxygen range
  • All necessary Gov. Taxes and service charges

Service Excludes

  • Dinner and lunch in Kathmandu
  • Your personal expenses for mineral water, soft beverages, confectionaries, laundries, phone calls, hot drinking water, bar bills, showers, etc. 
  • Extra baggage excess while flying to Lukla.
  • Nepal Visa (USD25 for 15 days and USD4 for 30 days)
  • Your meals at Kathmandu, except provided dinner and breakfast
  • Travel Insurance 
  • Personal climbing gear (rope, ice axe, crampons, boots, helmets, etc)
  • Monument entrance fee for a sightseeing tour in Kathmandu.
  • Any other expenses or charges not mentioned in the “cost includes” list. 
  • Tips to the staff
  • Any extending trips

Best time to travel

March-May & Sep-Dec

Physical Condition and requirement

Walking in higher altitudes is more physically demanding than walking in the lower altitudes, however, if we are in excellent health with average physical fitness, have a positive attitude, self-confidence, and strong determination, we can accomplish the trek successfully. Exercising and jogging regularly for some weeks prior to the trip is a good idea to enhance our strength and stability. Past hiking experience would be an asset but no technical skill is required for this trip. It is important that we consult with our doctor before we decide and set up for the Island Peak. Participants with pre-existing medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases should inform Treks Planner Nepal before booking the trek.

Additional info

Important notes

Because of bad weather, we could face the problem of domestic flights to/from Lukla delayed by few hours or canceled for a day or more. Very rarely, but it could happen even in best trekking season also as you know how climate changes affecting our globe. Thus, we always recommend you to add supplement night/s in Kathmandu after your trek if possible (just for in case). If everything runs smoothly, you can enjoy other activities like sightseeing, White water rafting, wildlife activities, shopping, as you wish in those additional days. However, if you want Heli rescue in the state of flight cancellation to/from Lukla-we can organize it as per your request. 


Source:www.treksplannernepal.com